I learned a new trick this summer that makes zucchini more enjoyable—a Deborah Madison suggestion to improve the texture and flavor of squash by salting. It takes more time, but I have decided it’s worth the hassle. The trick is to sprinkle the diced or sliced squash with salt and let it stand in a colander over a plate for 15 to 30 minutes, until a pool of liquid drains out. Deborah says to rinse and squeeze dry, but I have just been rinsing and draining on a towel. The cooked squash doesn’t turn translucent and watery—undesirable characteristics to me and, I think, many more cooks and eaters.
This recipe uses the same salting technique with cucumbers. It is from Tassajara Dinners & Desserts by Dale and Melissa Kent, adapted in an article in September 2009 Vegetarian Times magazine. I have adapted it further, using my mother’s habit of scoring cucumbers for visual appeal.
1 pound cucumbers, about 3
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon tamari soy sauce
2 teaspoons mirin (rice wine)
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon toasted black sesame seeds
Peel the cucumbers and trim the ends. Run the tines of a fork in parallel lines down the length of the cucumbers to score what will be decorative lines on the slices. Slice thinly, about 1/8-inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with salt; let drain in a colander over a plate about 20 minutes. Rinse and drain the cucumbers on towels.
Make a dressing with the vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, ginger and red pepper flakes. Toss the cucumber with the dressing and the sesame seeds. Refrigerate to marinate about an hour.
Makes about 6 servings.
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