Zucchini and Tortellini

I bet we all wish Trader Joe’s would open a store in Utah, and, thinking about all the liquor they sell at Trader Joe’s, I can also bet we will never have a store here. So I shop and stock up when I can. I buy their dried tortellini with mixed cheese filling because it travels and keeps well, and is a cut above in quality over similar products found locally.

John says we have “tons” of zucchini this week. This recipe, here to make a dent in your prolific green cylinder supply, uses Trader Joe’s tortellini instead of spaghetti. It is a Deborah Madison recipe, from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Use the entire amount of olive oil—it cooks the zucchini slowly and gently. The evaporated milk is from my pantry; Deborah calls for half-and-half or milk.

1 1/2 pounds zucchini

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 or 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 (5-ounce) can evaporated milk

6 ounces dried cheese-filled tortellini

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Handful basil leaves, torn into small pieces

Bring a large pot of water to boil for the pasta. Cut the zucchini in 1/2-inch lengths, and then cross-wise into 1/2-inch pieces.

In a large skillet heat the oil and the garlic together—the garlic cooks without scorching as the oil come to temperature. Add the zucchini and season with salt and pepper. Cook the zucchini over medium heat, stirring every so often, until the squash is soft and browned on some edges, 20 to 25 minutes.

When the pasta water boils, add salt and cook the tortellini until it is tender to your bite. Drain, toss with a little olive oil and set aside if it is ready before the zucchini.

When the zucchini has some golden color, add the milk and cook 7 to 10 minutes more, stirring more frequently. Toss with the pasta, cheese and basil. Season to taste with salt and more freshly ground pepper.

Makes about 4 servings.

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Zucchini Carpaccio

Make this salad when your zucchini are very fresh, like immediately from the garden or the CSA box, and use the smaller ones, saving those biggies for something else.  Cut the squash slices thinly, thin, thin, with a sharp knife, or a Japanese Benriner slicer or a French mandolin. Carpaccio, by definition, is an Italian appetizer–thin shavings of raw beef drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice.  This is a vegetarian interpretation–thin shavings of garden fresh zucchini. My friend Ginger serves three types of impeccably fresh squash– zucchini, pattypan and yellow, artfully laid in concentric circles on a platter, served family style, to guests at outdoor summer weddings. Ginger owns Orchard House Catering in Hood River Oregon, and works at Deer Valley in the winter.

4 small zucchini

1/3 cup loosely packed basil (and/or cilantro) leaves

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh squeezed lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup pine nuts, raw or very lightly toasted, optional

6 ounces fine quality aged Italian cheese, such as Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

Thinly sliced tips of 1 zucchini blossom, optional

Cut the zucchini into paper-thin slices. Arrange slices, overlapping slightly, on a serving platter or 4 salad plates.

Cut chiffonade slivers of basil and cilantro leaves, and sprinkle over the zucchini.

Drizzle the olive oil and lemon juice on top and sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Let stand about 10 minutes to soften the zucchini and let the flavors develop.

Just before serving, sprinkle with the pine nuts and drop shaved cheese over all.

If you have a squash blossom, garnish with slices of that.

Makes 4 servings.

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Grilled Zucchini Ribbon Pasta

View of Ranui from Hoyt Peak

Our high-altitude CSA is beginning to reap the benefits of a warm summer–this being our first week for basil and second for zucchini. We are lucky that our mountain night temps are cool and will refresh a kitchen hot from baking and cooking–but outdoor grilling and simple pasta do little to heat the house in the first place. So pre-heat a grill to high and bring a large pot of water to boil on the stove.

1 or 2 zucchini, depending on size, (about 2 pounds)

Extra virgin olive oil, as needed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tabelspoons sherry wine vinegar or fresh-squeezed lemon juice

8 ounces fettuccini noodles

1/2 cup toasted pine nuts of chopped walnuts

1/4 cup fresh sweet basil, cut in 1/4-inch chiffonade

1/2 cup grated Parmesan or similar aged cheese, optional

Trim the ends from the zucchini. Slice it, lengthwise and thinly, about 1/8-inch thick. Brush the lengths with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the zucchini quickly, about a minute on each side, until it wilts into tenderness and has light grill marks. Sprinkle with the vinegar and set aside.

Add salt to the boiling water, and cook the pasta until it is tender yet still firm to the bite. Drain and toss with the zucchini, nuts, basil and cheese, if using. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Makes about 6 servings.

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Creamy Cucumber Salad

Garlic, ripe for picking

Even with organic cucumbers, I like mine peeled. And I prefer the seeds removed; it’s a longstanding kitchen habit and I think you will appreciate the more pleasant eating too. Another detail—soak the red onions in ice water to mellow the bite of the onion.

This recipe can be varied in many ways. Add more yogurt and bump up the seasonings to make a saucy condiment—to curries or grilled meats. The full-fat Greek yogurt will be creamier, and low-fat or fat-free yogurt will make a thinner dressing. But if you are watching your calories…

1/2 red onion, thinly sliced, soaked for 10 minutes in ice water, drained

2 or 3 cucumbers

1 cup Greek-style plain yogurt or low-fat or fat-free plain yogurt

1 clove garlic, minced

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped dill leaves, optional

2 tablespoons fresh sweet basil, 1/8-inch chiffonade

While the onion is soaking, peel the cucumbers. Cut them in half and using a spoon, gently scoop out and discard the seeds. Slice about 1/4-inch thick–or thinner or thicker, it’s your preference. Mix with the yogurt, garlic,

salt, cayenne pepper and fresh herbs. Taste and correct seasoning. Serve immediately.

Makes about 6 servings.

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Incredible Shrinking Greens and Spaghetti with Beet Greens

Do you feel as if you’re overwhelmed with greens? Besides salad greens, you have spinach, kale, chard, beet greens, radish greens, collards, mizuna, mustard greens, arugula—you name it. What to do? Shrink them. Wilt your greens down to manageable, edible amounts. A pound of greens, occupying half of the veggie bin in the fridge, cooks into just about 2 cups of tangy cooked sweetness.

Spaghetti with Beet Greens

You want to trim the center rib and stem off most greens. With chard and beet greens, reserve these ribs, dice into pieces and sauté with onion and/or garlic. Last night I made Spaghetti with Beet Greens and the beet ribs tinted the spaghetti pink. I still have a stash of Pesto 2008 in the freezer so I added 3 large dollops of pesto for seasoning. If you don’t have any pesto, add a couple of minced garlic cloves with the onion and beet stems.

1 large bunch beet greens

8 ounces whole wheat spaghetti

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/2 yellow or red onion, sliced

About 1/4 cup basil pesto

1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar or other vinegar or lemon juice

Sea salt and red chile flakes

Wash the beet greens. Trim the leaves from the ribs. Cut the ribs into 1/4-inch pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti until it is tender to the bite (al dente).

Onions and Beet Stems

Over medium high flame, heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onion and beet stems and cook and stir until the beet stems soften a bit. Add the garlic, if using. Chop the beet greens into 1-inch ribbons and add to the skillet. Reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens wilt and shrink. Stir in the pesto, and gently toss in the cooked spaghetti, stirring to mix well. Sprinkle with the vinegar. Season to taste with salt. Serve red chili flakes at the table for those who like some heat.

Makes 2 or 3 servings.

Beet Green Ribbons before shrinkage

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Green Enchiladas

Do you have perfectly fresh cilantro because it’s preserved in water in a jar in your fridge? This recipe will use it all of it.

1 bunch spinach

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, diced in 1/4-inch pieces

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

1 jalapeno chile, seeds removed, minced (optional)

1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon balsamic or red wine vinegar

Salt

12 corn tortillas

6 to 8 ounces grated Monterey jack cheese **Use pepper jack or habanero cheddar instead, creating “picante” or spicy heat without the actual green chile

2 to 3 cups Green Sauce, purchased or homemade

Wash the spinach well. Cut the leaves away from the stems, discarding the stems, and chop the leaves into 1-inch strips. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Stir and cook the onion, garlic and chile, if using, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the spinach leaves, continuing to cook and stir until the leaves are wilted and shrunk. Add the cilantro. Season with vinegar and salt.

Lightly oil in a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Spread about 1/2 cup of Green Sauce in the bottom. Pre-heat oven to 350°. Place tortillas on baking sheets, 4 to 6 tortillas to a pan. Lightly brush or spray both sides of the tortillas with oil. Bake about 5 minutes, until pliable.

Spread a heaping tablespoon of the spinach mixture in a row in a tortilla. Sprinkle about the same amount of cheese on top. Roll the tortilla around the filling and place it seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with the rest of the tortillas. You can cover the pan at this point and refrigerate overnight.

Pour Green Sauce over the rolled tortillas, making sure to cover the ends. Sprinkle with more cheese, if you wish. Bake until heated through, about 20 minutes.

Makes 2 to 6 servings, depending on who is eating and what else you are serving with the enchiladas. ** Mexican cooks fry their tortillas in oil to make them pliable and so they don’t absorb the sauce. I prefer this over-warming method for more ease, less mess and ultimately less calories.

Homemade Green Sauce

1 (26-ounce) can whole tomatillos, drained

1 large onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

2 serrano or 1 jalapeno chile, seeds removed, cut into pieces, optional

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Whir the tomatillos, onion, garlic, cilantro, chile, if using, and salt in a blender until smooth. Heat the oil in a skillet and add the sauce, cooking for about 5 minutes. ** If you prefer mild enchiladas, put no or very little chile in the green sauce.

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The Greens of Ranui Gardens

Belonging to a CSA is the closest thing to having a personal veggie garden. Thanks to John and Sue and the farm crew for the work that goes into growing and picking and packaging for us. And then there is our work when we receive our weekly produce–the washing and putting away.

Epazote in water in a glass jar, covered with a plastic bag

Robbie and I think it is best to take care of the harvest right away so there is less prep work before dinner the rest of the week: Run a sink-full of cold water and wash the salad greens, arugula and any other greens, spin them dry in a lettuce spinner, wrap in a kitchen towel and refrigerate in the plastic baggy they came in. If we receive beets or radishes with good leaves, cut them off, and wash and stand them in a glass jar with the plastic bag cover. Greens held this way are still dandy for use the next Monday.

The same with fresh herbs: cut a little off the stem, stand in a glass jar half full of water, covered with the plastic bag—they will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. If the oven is on for something else– roast the beets, or boil them until tender, so they are ready for salads throughout the week.

This is a delicious soup recipe employing assorted greens and garlic scapes. I made it with bonus bean stock from cooking last week’s black beans.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

6 or 8 garlic scapes, trimmed and cut in 1/4-inch pieces

1/2 cup chopped onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

6 to 8 ounces beet greens

6 to 8 ounces radish greens

5 cups black bean or other vegetable broth

1/3 cup white wine

1 cup orzo pasta

Sea salt and red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

Grated Parmesan or other cheese, optional

Heat the oil over medium flame in a saucepan or small soup pot. Add the scapes and onion and cook and stir until the onion is soft. Add the minced garlic and cook and stir a few more minutes. Pour in the broth and white wine and reduce the heat to low. Wash the greens and trim away the stems and ribs. Cut into 1-inch ribbons. Add them to the soup along with about 1/4 teaspoon of salt and a pinch of the pepper flakes. Stir until the greens have wilted a little. Cover the pot and simmer 10-15 minutes.

In another pot, bring 4 cups of salted water to a boil. Add the orzo and simmer until the pasta is cooked through but still firm enough to bite with your tooth–al dente—about 10 minutes. Drain and add to the soup. Add the chopped cilantro. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Serve with cheese sprinkled on top if desired.

Makes 4 or 5 servings.

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Mushroom and Chard Tart in a Whole Wheat Crust

This crust is hard to resist—it melts in your mouth with nutty, salty satisfaction. Serve a wedge of the tart with a salad of mizuna greens, lightly wilted from a quick toss in warm vinaigrette.

Mushroom and Chard Tart

1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons cold water

8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced

1 large bunch chard, stems removed and cut in 1-inch pieces, leaves coarsely chopped

1/2 onion, chopped

1 stalk celery, cut in 1/4 inch dice

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

2 eggs

About 3 ounces soft goat cheese

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons hulled sunflower seeds

Prepare the crust: Whisk the flour and salt together in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the 6 tablespoons of oil and water until light in color. Immediately and all at once, pour the mixture over the flour and stir with a fork until all of the flour is mixed with the liquids. Between two sheets of waxed paper, roll the dough into an 11-inch circle. Gently remove the top sheet of waxed paper. Invert the other sheet with the pie dough over a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable rim.

Ready to peel away the waxed paper

Very gently remove the top sheet of waxed paper. Ease the crust into the corners of the pan, patching any tears or holes. Don’t worry if the dough does not stay together perfectly– you can press it into the pan. As you press the dough onto the bottom and sides of the tart pan, use your thumb to break off the excess dough at the top edge.

Over high flame, heat 1 of the remaining tablespoons of oil in a large skillet. Add the mushrooms and about 1/8 teaspoon of the salt and cook and stir until they are golden around the edges and all of the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a plate.

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Heat the last tablespoon of oil in the skillet. Add the onion, celery and chard stems and cook and stir until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chard leaves in a couple of additions—as they wilt there will be more room in the pan. Sprinkle with the remaining salt and cook until the chard is tender, another 5 minutes or so. Stir in the cilantro. Remove from the heat.

In a large bowl beat the eggs. Crumble the goat cheese into the eggs and then stir in the mushrooms and chard. Season with freshly ground pepper and more salt if you think it needs it. Scrape the filling into the tart shell and sprinkle with the sunflower seeds. Bake 15 minutes, lower the oven temperature to 375° F., and bake 20 to 25 minutes more until the filling is set and pieces of goat cheese on the surface are browned.

Center the tart over a bowl and let the removable ring fall away before placing the tart on a serving platter.

Makes 4 to 8 servings. E.g. 4 for main course, or 8 or more as part of a salad plate

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